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WINE SPECTATOR MAGAZINE
NOVEMBER 15, 2004 - PAGE 170

"CHANGE COMES TO THE CRESCENT CITY"

"…Certainly one of the most outstanding creole restaurants in the French Quarter is Muriel's Jackson Square. It is set in a historic building whose interior seems to go on forever, with exposed brick walls, fine abtiques andprivate banquet rooms upstairs (inc luding the Séance Lounge). Chef Erik Venéy cooks with real gusto and never skimps on portions. If you wish to stay traditional, start off with Muriel's sampler – gumbo, turtle soup, shrimp rémoulade, crab cake and oysters Muriel. But his heart is in more modern dishes with big American flavors, such as crispy roasted chicken with a duck confit – sausage corn-bread stuffing and assertive roasted garlic sauce; slow-roasted duck is served with aromatic pecan popcorn rice; and Napoleon's shrimp rémoulad updates a creole classic by sandwiching shrimp, in a spicy rémoulad sauce, between flawlessly fried green tomatoes.

Co-owner and wine buyer Rick Gratia maintains an extremely well-balanced Wine Spectator Award of Excellence cellar, with 350 labels, 50 half-bottles (including Cain Five Napa Valley '99 at $65), a "Special Listing" of decently priced rarities such as Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Meredith Estate '01 ($95), a 1.5 liter Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District '90 ($152) and nine vintages of Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Georges de Latour Private Reserve, including '81 in magnum ($180)…"


	New Orleans Magazine Names Erik Veney - Chef of the Year October 2003 --Lorin Gaudin, Food Editor New Orleans Magazine --Photography, Paul Rico "Veney, vidi, vici. Caesar's famous quote isn't spelled the same way, but the meaning remains the same: "I came, I saw, I conquered." And that is precisely what Muriel's executive chef, Erik Veney, has done. He's been there since the doors opened several years ago, working, watching and waiting for his time. As executive sous chef under two prior chefs (unbelievably, he's the third in three years), Veney survived bizarre menus, ideas and egos that never seemed to materialize into restaurant kudos or dollars. All that has changed; Veney's time has marked a boatload of success.

Asked how people describe him, Veney replies, "Quiet." Soft-spoken may be more apropos. He isn't known for kitchen theatrics, but is appropriately tough when necessary. "I'll show someone how to do something once, and I'm patient the first time there's a mistake," he says. "After that, if the mistakes continue, I'll pull someone to the side to find out what's going on. I'm stern, not ugly. If something doesn't get straightened out, well". That authoritative air has earned Veney respect and admiration, not fear, from the staff. He began cultivating respect from his kitchen comrades during those sous chef days, and having a strong kitchen foundation helped him immensely when Muriel's owners gave him the coveted executive chef spot. "No one does it alone," he says. "My team is great."

Once at the helm, Veney immediately reshaped the menu, applying some of his previously overlooked suggestions and ideas. He has maintained the spirit of the restaurant's contemporary Creole cuisine by combining classic ingredients such as puppy drum, mirlitons and sweet potatoes. Veney's intention is to "try to do interesting things without straying too far.² Nontheless, he also tosses some sharp, outside-the-box dishes onto the menu. The evidence is the seared foie gras with Louisiana pear marmalade or the crawfish and goat cheese crepes. I have seen tears fall for the foie gras and sins committed over his mashed sweet potatoes with pecans.

Veney knows exactly how far to push the envelope and where to keep it comfortable. He loves to use local produce, often in "specials" because of its limited availability and consistency. "It's vital that the food be consistent. It's what makes or breaks a restaurant."

Veney's screen-star looks and mild manner belie a fire burning in his eyes and a talent so blatant that even fussy food writer John Mariani of Esquire took notice Štwice. Then there was a Bon Appetit review and more top-notch nods in Wine Spectator, Food & Wine and Food Arts, as well as in local publications. Push the right button, and Veney reveals a broad smile that fails to hide some gloating for the top notices he and his team have garnered. Don't forget, Muriel's is the spectacularly renovated restaurant situated in a prime spot on Jackson Square, complete with stunning balcony - seemingly a nobrainer that should have been an immediate hit with tourists and locals upon opening. Now it is all those things and more."

Bon Appétit, March 2003 "Quiet Times on Jackson Square"
by Jim Henderson

"… the star of the cast is Muriel's Jackson Square, which opened two years ago. It is housed in a 15,000 square foot two-story building dating back to 1790 that for a quarter century was home to a Chart House restaurant.
Its wraparound balcony of wrought iron overlooks the square, and gas-lamp lighting sets a timeless mood against the Vieux Carré façade. Inside are a courtyard bar, upstairs lounge, and four dining rooms – two bistro style and two that are more formal. I decided to have dinner in the courtyard bar, a pure slice of the Quarter, with a glass ceiling that tops exposed brick walls, stone floors, wrought-iron tables, and a long, dark, polished bar.
The chef, 36 year-old, Erik Venéy, is a New Yorker who began his career in New Orleans after graduating from Johnson & Wales University. In true Louisiana tradition, he developed a menu that tilts heavily toward things that grow and live in the neighboring swamps, bayous, paddies, and Gulf of Mexico waters.

'We're very fortunate down here to have bountiful fresh fish from the Gulf, and crabs and crawfish,' Erik says. 'I'm trying to do interesting things, adding a little twist without straying too far from the mainstream. People come here looking for that Louisiana Creole flavor, and I want to give it to them.' Among the dishes that serve that cause are crawfish pasta, duck and lamb cassoulet, turtle soup, pecan sweet potatoes, alligator sausages, and oysters with Herbsaint cream. (Herbsaint is a potent anise-flavored liqueur similar to Pernod but made in New Orleans).
I ordered an appetizer of shrimp and crawfish cake, which comes dressed with roasted peppers, black bean coulis, and cilantro oil, and followed it with wood-grilled redfish served with corn maque choux (a succotash-like dish with peppers and onions) and "chips" made form mirliton (chayote squash).
Sipping brandy, I brood over my failure to claim my Mardi Gras prize. Outside, the square is dimly lit. Foot traffic is reduced to the pilgrims, still trolling for souls, and a handful of tourists on a vampire tour. Midnight approaches."


	New Orleans: Fans "can't say enough about" this "exciting" spot set in a "great location" "overlooking Jackson Square"; "one of the most beautiful restaurants in town", it boasts "incredible" ambience, "wonderful" contemporary interpretations of traditional Creole dishes and "knowledgeable" service; the "not overly impressed" cite "growing pains", but most predict this "keeper" with "lots of potential" won't be "a well-kept secret" for long.

American Way, 05.15.01 "In the Mood for food"

"New Orleans: Muriel's Jackson Square … occupying 19^th-century French Quarter quarters, the two-story Muriel's serves a repertoire of bistro dishes … in Old World atmosphere, serving food and drink on a balcony overlooking Jackson Square, or in a courtyard, in the formal dining room, or in the nocturnally themed Séance Lounge."

Celebrated Living, November 2002 "Chic Cuisine"

"Muriel's Jackson Square… In New Orleans, its French Quarter offspring keeps the energy of the original while investing in the qura of the mysterious city. Atmosphere is everything in the two-story, nineteenth-century building with dining on a balcony over Jackson Square, in a tranquil courtyard, or in the formal dining room. Food ranges from from Southern-accented bistro fare to late night nibbles."

Chicago Social, April 2002 "Forget Emeril"
by Gina Bazer

"Some of New Orleans' best restauranteurs are not on the Food Network … Muriel's, belying its French Quarter location … serves up contemporary Louisiana fare (like wood-grilled redfish with Boursin grits, roasted Gulf shrimp) in a funkified setting. Each of the four dining/bar areas is lovingly decorated with art, antiques and salvaged architectural remnants. There's even a plush, red velvet-soaked Séance Lounge, complete with a Ouija board and crystal ball."

Country Roads, October 2002 "Muriel's Restaurant: A Tribute to Both Civility and Decadence"
by Brenda Maitland

"… It is all by design, however, a homage to a classic period of gracious living, gallantry and gentility, but with a bow to the intrigues and inconstancies of aristocratic lifestyles in a historically tumultuous era. In all its incarnations, the place has always seemed to retain a majestic presence … This feeling of hidden mysteries, of both elegance and decadence from the city's glorious past, were key elements Doug Ahlers (owner) wished to impart to his new project.'My goal was to bring back the rea of befor modernity transformed the world, a time that was based on grace, elegance, style and charm,' said Ahlers… Rick Gratia (General Manager and co-proprietor) brings his exceptional wine knowledge to Muriel's in compiling a list of 260 labels that match the restaurant's cuisine as well as the palates of discriminating diners. Chef Erik Venéy turns out fantastic Creole dishes … 'We get the freshest ingredients available and let the natural flavors come through, being carful not to over-sauce,' he said… Venéy's Creole talents shine with his version of the appetizer Crabmeat Eggroll over maque choux, a delectable deviation and addition to an old standard."

Food & Wine, February 2002 "Where to go Next in New Orleans"
by Malia Boyd

"Muriel's … the chef has long made use of native Louisiana ingredients, and his cooking at this former mansion in the French Quarter is no exception. Gulf fish, locally grown mirliton (chayote) and barbecue sauce made from Steen's molasses all appear on his predominantly Creole menu …"

Food Arts, May 2001
New Orleans:

"Muriel's Jackson Square … opened at 801 Chartres Street, in the heart of the French Quarter, in March (2001). The two-story, 15,000 square-foot building has been restored to original 1800s Vieux Carre beauté, its façade adorned with gas lamp fixtures and a lacy wrap-around wrought-iron balcony… Downstairs, the 140-seat Bistro offers casual Creole-accented fare, with appetizers such as braised veal cheek/oxtail ragout and black mussels with saffron fumet and tasso. Entrees range from cassoulet of rabbit, andouille, ham hock and white beans to sautéed redfish with jambalaya risotto cake and saffron/tomato stew. Desserts include white chocolate/coconut tart and almond croissant bread pudding. Upstairs, in the more formal Soirée, which seats another 140, Muriel's proposes a nightly tasting menu made up of such enticements as roasted Hudson Valley foie gras in leek/cauliflower soup followed by lobster/truffle couscous with poached egg and salmon cream."

Physicians' Travel & Meeting Guide "Dining Guide: New Orleans"
by Diane Tegmeyer

"… a provocative menu and perhaps the best site in the city is Muriel's Jackson Square… Sit here and watch the world go by. An antique décor is both opulent and bohemian at once. Private dining rooms make this a perfect place for parties or large groups. Muriel's chef Erik Venéy worked at Mr. B's Bistro before taking over here where he has created a menu that includes traditional New Orleans appetizers such as oysters Muriel, shrimp remoulade and crawfish étouffée and entrees such as cassoulet and wood-grilled redfish."

Santé Magazine, October 2002 "Creating a Bar Scene"
by Donna Smallin Craft an Experience

"The owners of Muriel's Jackson Square in New Orleans have built their entire business on the experience concept. Located in the heart of the French Quarter, their 15,000 square-foot restaurant is housed in one of the city's grand residences, restored to its nineteenth-century glory at a cost of $2 million. The bar areas at Muriel's generate 35% of revenue for the restaurant, or $500,000 of the $2.6 million in total beverage sales. Co-proprietor Rick Gratia says, 'You have to recognize that everything affects the customer experience – from music, lighting, and temperature to china, glassware, silverware, and staff attire.'
Opened in March 2001, Muriel's offers four distinct experiences. On the first floor, a chic courtyard bistro and bar present casual fine dining. Says Gratia of the Creole-style menu, 'The food gets [the customer] in, but we make money on the beverages.' Upstairs, patrons enjoy light fare and drinks on the balcony as they listen to the street musicians below on Jackson Square. Inside, guests are served contemporary Louisiana fare in an intimate, gaslit formal dining room. The upstairs also houses the sultry Séance Lounge, a decadent gathering place with plush, velvety furnishings and a variety of drinks."

Visitor Magazine, January 2003 "Chef Speak"

"In the heart of the French Quarter, Erik Venéy is updating Creole cooking. Muriel's occupies a beautiful corner of Jackson Square and presents a menu of classic New Orleans dishes with creative twists. Creole cooking combines the classic techniques of the early French and Spanish colonists and local ingredients. That includes everything from cured meats and sausages from Cajun Country to all the seafood pulled out of the Gulf and bayous. Barbecued shrimp has become one of the city's signature dishes. Venéy has created a version in which he shells the shrimp, bathes them in a special barbecue sauce made with beer and then puts them on skewers to cook them on the grill. He then serves them over rice pilaf sitting in bowls made from fried rice paper. Crab cakes are very popular locally. Venéy created his own crabmeat appetizer and matched it with corn macque choux, a Creole version of corn succotash. His dish is a crabmeat and sautéed leek egg roll served over the macque choux. When crawfish come into season, he sautés crawfish with the trinity of Creole cooking, celery, bell peppers and onions. He then adds white wine and serves it like a sauce over goat cheese crepes. Creole cooking was originally an approach to combining old recipes with new ingredients. Contemporary Creole cooking is doing the exact same thing to modernize New Orleans cuisine and keep it creative."

Where Magazine, May 2002 "Taste of the City"
by Tracy Williams

"Muriel's Jackson Square … serves contemporary Creole cuisine. An oddly cozy mixture of wood, brick, and vintage photographs in the dining room, and plush velvet curtains and African décor in the upstairs Séance lounge make Muriel's one of the more eclectic places in town. The food, however, is inspired by traditional Louisiana cooking. A recent change in the kitchen puts Chef Erik Venéy in charge. Venéy honed his culinary skills with the Brennan family, first at Mr. B's Bistro, then as executive chef at BACCO, and again at Mr. B's as executive sous chef. Signature dishes include oysters Muriel (smoked oysters with a bacon, mushroom, and jalapeno stuffing); seared foie gras with cane jelly, apples, and watercress; and shrimp remoulade with fried green tomatoes."

Wine Spectator, 2002 Restaurant Awards
"Best Restaurants in the World for Wine Lovers"

Louisiana:
Award of Excellence: Muriel's Jackson Square, New Orleans

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